Farewell, Café Brussel

How sad was I to read in the Star this morning that Café Brussel (124 Danforth Ave.) is closing its doors next Saturday after 21 years in business? I have fond memories of weekend brunches with friends in the Art Deco-styled room. For some inexplicable reason, we were always seated in one of the booths on the second level, but that was fine by me since it provided one with the voyeuristic thrill of watching the diners seated below.

I’d never actually had dinner there before, figuring that I had plenty of time to head back to give it a try. But the years passed and my time had just about run out. So I changed the day’s plans to dine there tonight.

The restaurant was as I remembered with its dark red, mirrored glass, and pressed tin walls. There were framed prints of vintage Lillet and Campari ads and Tamara de Lempicka posters that enhanced the 1920s mood of the establishment. Funnily enough, we were led up to a booth in the second level—how traditional.



After some consideration, we decided to each try one of the thirty-two moules et frites offerings. I was torn because I was rather hungry, and when I’m really hungry, I tend to favour juicy steaks. But since I was in a Belgian restaurant, I thought it appropriate to savour a taste of their “national” dish.

The yummy mussels were served in a pot and the fries were perfectly thin and crispy—just the way I like them. I had the Moules Poulette (wine, cream, lemons and mushrooms) although I was tempted to order the Moules à la snob (wine, tarragon, herbes de provence and cream) for the name alone. My companion had the Moules poire William (pear cider, herbs, onions, peppercorns) which I actually preferred because the pear cider leant the mussels a hint of fruity sweetness.

I wasn’t quite sure that we would have room for dessert after our appetizers and a bucket-full of mussels each, but I was feeling a bit indulgent given that it was a farewell meal after all, so we shared a chocolate mousse, and I even had a café Espagnol.

According to the paper, chef-owner Roger Wils is decamping to Niagara to open a winery. He mentioned tonight that he may eventually open a small dining room there…so perhaps it isn’t a “good-bye” I bid tonight but a “see you again” at some other dining table in the future.

Whatever the case may be, thank you, Café Brussel, for the memories.